| For
our fifth wedding anniversary we planned
two very special events. The first was to
see a real Scottish Highland Games. We pointed
the car towards North Berwick and drove
out of the city. this was slightly more
challenging than expected because every
road in Edinburgh seems to be under some
construction. We made it out and were quickly
on the road.
North Berwick is not a
large town, but it has large enough grounds
to hold a sizeable games. Just as a county
fair in the US, there were plenty of vendors
selling their wares. There were carnival
rides and food tents and we would have felt
as if we hadn't left the states if there
wasn't a constant shrill note from a bagpipe,
a staccato rapping of snare drums and the
low boom of the base drum.
The main feature of the games was a fenced in area about half the size of a football field. In the front there were two judging stations for bands.
Continuing along the side was the drum major's competition and the Midlothian dog club's training display. The far corner and part of the center was dedicated to the
"heavy events."
Bands came from many skill
levels (each competing in a proper division)
and from all sorts of foreign countries.
We saw bands from New Zealand, Australia,
Canada, South Africa and Oman. They each
came in their own bus and most were warming
up in the parking lot prior to their competition.
It gave the whole event a very light, if
cacophonous, feel.
Before checking out the
"heavy events," we wandered about and watched
piping competitions in groups, solo pipers,
and highland dancers. Mixed in were the
display of authentic (old) cars by the Rotary
club, a local fire brigade truck, a crafts
tent and more candies than a child could
consume in a day.
We took a spot at the
fence to watch the highlight of the games.
Here five men (nine were originally entered)
competed in five disciplines - a shot put
(putting 16 lb ball), a 28 pound weight
on a short chain (throwing 28 lb weight
for distance), the Scottish hammer (throwing
16 lb Scots Hammer), the 56 lb stone (throwing
the 56 lb weight for height), and the caber
toss (tossing the caber). It's a pretty
simple affair - you get four tries to throw
the object farthest without fouling. The
caber is scored based on whether you are
able to flip it and if so, how close to
12:00 does it land. If you can't flip it,
how many degrees can you get it to achieve
(check out the video: successful
flip, unsuccessful
flip).
Right from the start a
massive man named Bruce Rob (we think) took
the lead. The only person who had a shot
was a powerful bulldog of a man who competed
and won at the masters international championships.
Style is not the most important factor -
form and strength rule here. We were surprised
to find a fellow American competing. This
was his first competition in Scotland and
you could tell he was looking for helpful
hints at each event. The competition is
slow and took more hours than we expected,
but it was worth it to hang in and see the
caber tossed live. It was a very impressive
show and Bruce dominated the field to win
every event. The American tried hard but
was out of his depth, finishing last.
The second significant event was to attend the 2009 Edinburgh Military Tattoo. This is a celebration of military bands and precision performance. Oddly
enough, the word tattoo is really a combination of a phrase in Gaelic that means "to turn the taps off" and was said every night at closing time in the bar. We're still
a little confused about how that fits in!
Even with tickets, everyone begins to queue forty-five minutes before the program starts. The police shut down the Royal Mile and the queue winds it's way from the side of Edinburgh
Castle around to the front gate. The crowd is excited and there is an electricity in the air. It has the same energy as a major sports championship in the United States. The queue moves
briskly and narrows as the streets narrow.
Suddenly, you are through and walking into the parade grounds. Stands are set up in a rectangle with the far wall being the brightly lit front of Edinburgh
Castle. We took our seats - some of the best in the house - directly opposite from the castle gate and centered on the grounds. All of the action would be directly in front of us. Just a
note - the seats are small and you will get to know your neighbor very well.
The lights went out and the show began. The massed pipe and drums, 250 in total, paraded out from the castle gates and set an amazing tone for the rest of the
event. It proceeded at a frenetic pace through the performance bands from Oman and Togo. A Chinese group performed and then there was a demonstration of field medicine
followed by the Swiss military band. One of the highlights of the night was the performance of the Swiss Top Secret drumming corps. Their super fast hands whipped the crowd
into a frenzy as they passed sticks to each other and used each other's drums. Their finale was in a blackened stage with flaming drumsticks. It was excellent!
The Tattoo concluded with
every performer entering the ground and
all playing together. We stood for "God
Save the Queen" and joined hands for "Auld
Lang Syne." Then the commander ordered everyone
at ease and we all enjoyed a closing fireworks
show. It was an outstanding event.
We should add a word or
two about the Fringe festival. We didn't
have a chance to work the festival into
our schedule, but there are literally hundreds,
if not thousands of events in venues from
our hotel to a large purple cow laying on
it's back, feet and udders in the air. Comedy
seems to be the largest category of performance.
When you walk around town, people in all
sorts of costumes hand out pamphlets attempting
to lure you to their show. It is truly a
wild place with all of this going on.
Hotel: Jury's Inn
Restaurant(s): La Rusticana (Italian)
Attractions: North Berwick Highland Games, Edinburgh Military Tattoo
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