| We are
combining these days due to the long travel
to and from Can Tho. Can Tho is considered
the capital of the Mekong Delta and is approximately
four hours south of Saigon on Route 1A.
On the drive down, the only excitement came
at the end when we disembarked from our
bus to take the ferry across the Hau Giang
River. These are big serious ferries that
take both people and all manner of vehicles
across to Can Tho. In the near distance,
you can see a bridge being built and one
year from now the ferries will stop running.
It was nice to be out of the bus, even for
the brief ferry ride.
That evening, the hotel
had a gala planned in honor of Christmas
Eve. Is seems that this Buddhist country
has completely embraced the trappings of
Christmas - lights, Santa, presents - simply
as a way to have a party. Everywhere we
went, decorations abounded. THey dropped
off noticeably outside Saigon, but were
back in full arrangement in Can Tho. The
gala consisted of a lion dance, traditional
song and music and a more modern band all
as a backdrop to an enormous buffet. Right
away it started to rain and an army of hotel
staff swarmed the pool deck and re-arranged
everything on the terrace without so much
as dropping a fork. The food was very nice
and the desserts were excellent. We made
up for the lack of desserts in one single
night.
The morning of the 25th
was a very early start so that we could
get out to the floating market by boat.
We boarded the boat at the hotel and were
shortly in the midst of a bustling wholesale
market. The larger boats would cluster together
by food on offer and smaller boats with
individuals would purchase quantities to
take to the retail markets. The boats advertised
their wares by hanging everything they were
selling from long poles that raised from
the bow. Mostly we saw fruits, vegetables
and aromatics - no meat, poultry or fish
(with the exception of a few roosters on
boats). It was invigorating to be in the
middle of all this commerce.
On the way back to the
bus, we stopped in a quaint riverside village
to visit a local school. The kids were grouped
in sixes around tables learning history.
We asked a few of them what they wanted
to be when they grew up and then the kids
sang "We wish you a merry christmas"
in english and a song about Ho Chi Minh
in Vietnamese. It was a light moment in
the day.
Back on the bus, we heard
the story of how the mosquito came to be.
There once was a beautiful woman who was
wooed by some powerful and rich men. But
she fell ill and lost her looks and the
attentions of her suitors. A poor farmer
rescued her and married her, but she continued
to get sicker. They visited many doctors
and one finally said the cure would be to
take her husband's blood and use it instead
of her own. The transfusion completed, she
regained both her health and her looks.
She rejected the farmer in favor of a rich
man and the farmer agreed to let her go
on one condition - she return his blood
to him. She did but the illness returned
and she died. Her body was transformed into
a mosquito, doomed forever to take blood
from others to live.
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