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first day of the tour got off to an auspicious
start. We saw Robin at breakfast, but Mom
and Dad never showed up. I went in search
of them and found them in the wrong restaurant.
Following a hearty
buffet breakfast that included everything
from pancakes and made to order omelets
to dim sum, we piled into our pink tour
bus and headed to our first destination
- the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum. You are not
allowed to photograph "Uncle Ho,"
so our tour guide collected the cameras
and waited for us. We wound our way across
the front of the mausoleum and finally up
the steps to see the great leader. He is
kept in a marble room with guards at each
corner of his display case. Behind him,
there are floor to ceiling panels of red
marble - one with the star of Vietnam and
the other with the hammer and sickle. He
is very well preserved and is lowered into
a very cold storage chamber every afternoon.
Outside the mausoleum,
we retrieved our cameras and proceeded to
tour Ho Chi Minh's two houses. The first,
where he lived and worked from 1954 to 1958,
consisted of three rooms each spartan and
focused in it's simplicity. The rooms were
all very functional and the only adornments
were pictures of Marx and Lenin. His second
home, where he lived and worked from May
1958 to August 1969, was built on stilts
near his first. This was the house he died
in and it was furnished like his first one
for working. Ho Chi Minh never married because
he thought it would make governing difficult
by allowing for a pressure point.
After we viewed
the houses, we continued to the one pillar
pagoda (Chua Mot Cot). The original pagoda
was destroyed a long time ago, however,
due to it's unique design, the government
ordered it to be rebuilt. The shrine perches
atop a single large pole and is supported
by beams radiating from the pole. It is
said to resemble a lotus flower and it is
the only design of it's kind in the world.
Built in 1049 by the Emperor Ly Thai Tong,
the wooden lotus-shaped pagoda rests on
a single stone pillar rising out of a lotus
pool. It was constructed to celebrate the
Emperor's marriage to a peasant girl and
the subsequent birth of his heir.
Our next stop was
at the museum of indigenous peoples (the
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology). Vietnam can
claim over 54 different ethnic groups and
this museum is dedicated to preserving some
of the customs and artifacts from many of
those groups. We elected to tour the replica
houses in the gardens first. This proved
to be the most fun interaction of the day
as we were swarmed by a school group. At
first it was just saying hi as they passed
but them Mom and Robin stopped to find out
how old they were and the 8-9 year olds
descended en masse and we were signing autographs
like rock stars after a concert. It was
a lot of fun and we enjoyed a good laugh
afterwards.
Little did we know,
the gardens and traditional replica houses
provide a popular backdrop for wedding photos.
We saw three brides posing for pictures.
According to our guide, these photos are
taken a month before the wedding and are
enlarged and displayed at the reception.
Our lunch stop was
at a restaurant where they served some traditional
foods with a twist. We opened with a vegetable
soup and followed with spring rolls. Then
they brought out a salad of shredded vegetables
with beef. The main courses included a tamarind
pork and fish in sweet and sour sauce. They
topped it all off with some bright red watermelon.
With a full belly,
we boarded the bus to the Confucius temple
(the Temple of Literature, Van Mieu). It
is a well preserved site with three paths,
on the right walked the Mandarin scholars
and courtiers, on the left walked the military
and the Emperor walked down the middle.
In the second courtyard, there are plaques
which stand on the backs of turtles. On
the plaques are inscribed the names of the
people who have successfully passed their
examinations with the emperor. We moved
further into the temple and explored the
enormous drum and the many shrines to Confucius.
Built in 1070, the temple is dedicated to
the worship of Confucius and some famous
Vietnamese scholars. It then became Vietnam's
first National University in 1706 to educate
the sons of Mandarins. The 5 central courtyard's
represent the elements of nature accessed
by a central path flanked by lotus ponds
and sacred trees.
Our next destination
was the temple (Ngoc Son Temple) of the
Taoists in the heart of old town. This is
a much smaller temple, but contains the
preserved remains of a turtle who lived
in the lake (Hoan Kiem Lake) that the temple
was built on. The legend of this turtle
is that it provided the only area for a
phoenix to land over 400 years ago. We were
a little skeptical. The temple, founded
in the 18th century, is dedicated to the
national hero Tran Hung Dao who defeated
the moguls in the 14th century.
From the temple,
we took a walking tour of old town. Each
street specializes in products and we walked
down streets devoted to eyeglasses, televisions,
and a kaleidoscope of other products. The
challenge was crossing the busier streets.
We would cross as a group and the steady
stream of motorbikes would pass around us
like a school of fish swimming around an
obstacle.
We elected to stay
in old town and take in a presentation of
the water puppets. This is a set of puppets
on long poles that are dragged through the
water to enhance their motion. The hour
long show included dragons, fishermen, and
rice harvesters. We had trouble following
the story as it was in Vietnamese. A unique
experience that I mostly slept through despite
the shrill music.
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