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Day 15: January 5, 2006 - El Calafate, Argentina
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When we came down for breakfast, we were informed that as part of our room package we were also entitled to the excursion that takes place at the estancia. Our itinerary said that we were supposed to have a day of leisure around El Calafate. Not knowing what else to do, we choose the morning excursion.

Everyone gathered in the attached restaurant around 10am. Busloads of other people were arriving to participate. First there would be a sheep shearing demonstration, then a display of herding sheep with Kelpie dogs, then a walk around the grounds viewing the flora and fauna. The excursion is topped off with a barbeque and dance review.

The sheep shearing took place in the barn next to the restaurant. We heard explanations of how the shearers banded in groups and go from farm to farm during the shearing season. These shearers are hearty souls, but because of the work, their backs are shot by 40 and they have to find a new line of work. Our shearer took about 3-5 minutes to shear the sheep and was able to only have 3 holes in the wool. A real shearer would do this in approximately 1 minute, have only a single hole, and move on to do 250 sheep in a day.
sheep shearing
Sheep shearing
scavenger bird
Scavenger bird
 
Once the wool is sheared, it is sorted, cleaned and pressed to remove the lanolin. The wool then goes up to Trelew for the market. On this farm, the sheep are mostly kept for tourism purposes. However, the owner has another farm in Ushuaia where he has 21,000 head of sheep.

We went outside for the herding demonstration as it started to drizzle. A gaucho came over the hill with 3 dogs and about 20 sheep. We watched as the dogs moved the sheep through various obstacles designed to show their abilities. One of the dogs, named Max, only had 3 1/2 legs, but he was still out there helping to confuse and stress out the sheep.

It started to rain a little harder as we went for our flora and fauna walk. There are a large number of gulls, geese and ibis that inhabit a lagoon on the property. Along the way, the guide pointed out the calafate berry which looks like a blueberry. Despite being told that it was not ripe, Dad tried one anyway and spit it out - it was very bitter. The calafate bush has a local legend around it. One day a group of Welsh people were passing through and one of their members was sick. She was rumored to be some kind of witch, but the Welsh tradition was to leave the sick behind. She became so lonely that she turned herself into a bush. The birds liked the bush because it protected them from the wind. However, there was no food to be had in the area, so they went further south. The old woman was alone again and decided to provide food for the birds when they returned. One year later, the birds discovered the berries and the old woman had company forever.

The walk ended on the shore of Lago Argentina, the largest lake in Argentina. We walked along the beach and found volcanic stones - remnants of the volcano from thousands of years ago in this area.

Then it was time for lunch and a show. The staff knew that Robin was a vegetarian so they provided a plate of spaghetti for her. The sauce looked dark and tasted funny. When we inquired, it sounded like the chef took the meat sauce and ran it through a strainer! We got her another helping with a true tomato sauce.

After lunch, two dancers danced native dances in typical gaucho costumes. They were pretty good and we were amazed that the male would land on the side of his feet for some of the steps.

The music ended and so did our "excursion". We decided to board one of the buses for a ride into El Calafate proper to shop and see the town. It was raining harder as we looked into darkened stores - they were all (well mostly) closed from 2-4 for lunch. We killed some time and then did some shopping before returning to the estancia. We ordered our boxed lunches for the next day and wound down with a nice dinner.
sunset estancia
Sunset over Estancia Alice
sunset cerros
Sunset over the cerros
 
 
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  Last Updated: January 16, 2006