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St. John / St. Thomas Trip 2006
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Day 16: January 6, 2006 - El Calafate, Argentina
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The final full day of our trip took us to the Perito Moreno Glacier for some sightseeing and a hike on the glacier itself. We were picked up from the hotel around 9:30am and boarded a mostly full bus. The drive to the national park took about an hour and was uneventful.

We arrived at the glacier and boarded a boat which took us down Lake Viedma to the Viedma side of the glacier. Once we landed, a guide met us and split us into the english speaking group and the spanish speaking group. Then we headed down to the beach for a glacier lesson.
whole glacier
Perito Moreno glacier (click on image for larger view)
park sign
Glacier National Park
glacier approach
Perito Moreno glacier from boat
glacier
Perito Moreno glacier from boat
lago argentino side
Perito Moreno glacier, Lago Argentino side
 
We learned many facts, but the ones that stuck were about the glacier itself. Perito Moreno is about 7km wide and 30km long. 40m of ice is above the lake surface and 110m is below the lake surface. The glacier moves forward approximately 1 meter per day and new snow is deposited on top keeping it in balance.

Then it was time to strap on the crampons and head out onto the ice. Before we could do that, a very large 10 cubic meter iceberg calved off of the glacier. We saw it move just before feeling the low tones and hearing the sharp crack. You really feel the sound as much as hear it. We became accustomed to it because the ice is constantly shifting, cracking, and calving.

Crampons are heavier than they look, but essential for a good walk on the ice. At no time did you feel like you were going to slip or lose your connection to the ice. The funny part about a guided ice tour is that all of the paths on the ice are clean - all of the miscellaneous dirt is constantly ground away.
HK glacier
Howard and Kirsten on the glacier
on the glacier
On the Perito Moreno glacier
 
We walked on the glacier for about an hour and a half. We saw deep blue holes that went from white at the surface to navy blue deep down. We crossed over rivers of water that constantly cascaded across the top of the ice creating pools and wells. Many of the wells look active because oxygen will occasionally bubble to the surface. At the end of the trek everyone had a scotch with ice from the glacier. The whole experience is magical and difficult to describe in words.
family glacier
The whole family on the glacier
scotch drinkers
Scotch anyone?
HK glacier
Howard and Kirsten on the glacier
lago argentino
Lago Argentino
 

Then we grabbed our box lunches and ate while observing the glacier. Throughout, the weather was superb. Bright sunshine with an occasional cloud. However, when you looked up at the mountains you could tell it was snowing up there. They get 8000mm of snow there per year!

Pretty soon it was time to get back on the boat and return. On the way back, the boat took us closer to the dam of ice between Lake Viedma and Lake Argentina. We arrived back on shore and boarded the bus for a 20 minute ride up to the balconies. This is a set of overlooks where you can see the whole glacier from Viedma on the left to Argentina on the right.

We continued to hear calving and just missed a big one of the Viedma side. The balconies really give you a true feel for how massive this glacier is. After an hour of pictures, it was back on the bus to head for the estancia.
glacier panoramic
Perito Moreno glacier panoramic (click on image for larger view)
 
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  Last Updated: January 16, 2006